Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Make sure you have completed all the setup steps before you start printing.
Q1: The raft below the 3D print is impossible to detach. Is this normal?
A1: This can happen. It is still possible to remove the raft option, but it will require adjusting the distance between the hotend and the print bed. It is also possible to adjust the print bed at the four corners.
Q2: It seems like the 3D print isn't very solid. What should I do?
A2: Try squishing the 3D print with your fingers. This will indicate if you have extrusion issues.
Q3: The filament is completely inserted into the white tube. I try to remove the remaining filament, but it won't come out. What should I do?
A3: If the filament doesn't move after unloading and trying to purge it, here are the steps to follow:
A) Heat the nozzle to 210-215°C: Temperature → Nozzle → 210°C.
B) Wait until the nozzle reaches 210°C.
C) Push the black clip inward to release the white tube.
D) Remove the white tube.
E) Remove the filament.
Q4: I tried to remove the tube from the connector, but it doesn't work. What should I do?
A4: Make sure to push the black clip inward to release the white tube.
Q5: I'm trying to print a project, but I can't. What should I do?
A5: If you're having trouble printing, here are some steps to follow:
A) Check that the project file is set up correctly and that the print settings are correct.
B) Make sure the filament is loaded correctly and that the nozzle isn't clogged.
C) Examine the resulting photo for any visible issues, such as poor bed adhesion or warping.
D) Did you add support underneath your part? If not, it could be printing into a void. In the support tab, select "detect" to have the software automatically generate support where needed.
Q6: I'm printing a cube and each layer is offset. This could be for several reasons. What should I do?
A6: I think the heat may have affected the extruder motor driver. What should I do?
Q7: If you suspect that heat has affected the extruder motor driver, here are some suggestions:
A7: A) Check the operating temperature of the components and make sure they are not overheating.
B) Make sure the microcontroller's cooling fan is working properly and cooling the motors effectively.
C) If possible, move the printer to a cooler location.
D) If the problem persists, contact us .
Q8: I would like to know what the minimum thickness would be for this to work well? Is there a maximum thickness that must be respected?
A8: For the thickness of the lubricant, it does not really matter, but it must be put where the moving parts touch.
Q9: When I try to print, I hear clicking sounds from the extruder.
A9: The distance between the hot nozzle and the center of the print bed will need to be readjusted. Is the nozzle too close to the print bed?
Q10: The print bed is having trouble raising and it's clicking.
A10: If you hear clicking sounds and the bed is having trouble raising, it could be a sign that a brick is sticking out slightly. To fix this, see this link: Troubleshooting.
Q11: I'm out of lubricant. I was wondering where I should buy it.
A11: You can find lubricant at home improvement or hardware stores. Brands like "Super Lube" or "Sewing Machine Oil" are recommended. Make sure you choose a lubricant that is compatible with plastic.
Q12: I can't find the lubricant?
A12: Each kit comes with a tube, but it's okay if you don't have one; I can send you one later. At this time, it's not essential to have lubricant.
Q13: Once assembled, what should I do next?
A13: Start turning on the printer by following the printing procedures. Make sure you follow these procedures carefully and check that all connectors are properly connected. If you don't have the mini SD card, please get one, and we will send you the print file.
Q14: Are you experiencing adhesion issues, such as corners lifting or the object coming off the print bed?
A14:
Turn the adjustment bolt a quarter turn at a time, then try printing again (See section D of the startup page for more details)
Add an adhesive to the printing sheet: See section B of the printing page
Add a skirt in the KiriMoto slicer:
See the "Base" tab in the left menu, increase the skirt count to 5 and adjust the skirt offset to 0.
Add a raft in the KiriMoto slicer:
See the “Base” tab in the left menu then check “enable raft”
Q15: What should I do if the printer doesn't turn on at all?
A15: First, check that the printer is properly plugged in and that the outlet is working. Also, make sure the power switch is in the "on" position. If the printer still doesn't turn on, there might be a problem with the power supply.
Q16: What type of filament should I use for my prints?
A16: Strictly PLA.
Q17: What should I do if the filament breaks during printing?
A17: If the filament breaks, stop printing and remove the remaining filament from the nozzle. Check that the filament is of good quality and is not too old or wet. Replace it with new filament and resume printing.
Q18: Is it normal for the printer to make noise while printing?
A18: Some noise is normal during printing, especially motor and fan noise. However, unusual noises, such as clicking or grinding, may indicate a problem. In this case, check the moving parts and make sure they are well lubricated and aligned.
Q19: After I finished assembling the printer and turned it on, smoke came out of the microcontroller and the printer stopped working.
A19: You probably connected the X-axis limit switch incorrectly, which caused a short circuit. Simply replacing the limit switch will solve the problem.
Q20: I damaged the Ulio3D print bed sheet. Where can I get another one?
A20: Please contact us by email.
Q21: Can I use a tablet? If so, I can't insert an SD card.
A21: Yes, you can use a tablet. Just buy an adapter online.
Q22: Where can I get spare parts?
A22: Please contact us by email.
Q23: I hear clicking sounds when I try to print.
A23:
Loosen the adjustment bolt a quarter turn at a time, then try printing again.
The extruder may be clogged, please contact us by email.
If your question is not listed here, please contact us