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Startup

 

Important

  • Please make sure you've already reduced to a minimum the gaps between the teeth of the racks and pinions, the wobble of all moving parts and have lubricated the printer if not please review the final adjustments in the assembly videos
  • Please make sure you've installed all of the required programs & drivers before going ahead with the startup 
    • Click here to be redirected to the software download page
  • If your question doesn't figure in our FAQ's please send an email to our customer support at info@ulio3d.com and we'll try to get back to you as soon as possible

 

 

A

Powering up the printer

1 . Plug the power supply into the 120 VAC wall outlet

  • You should see a green light on the power supply

2 . Plug the power supply into the DC power jack of the printer and turn ON the switch (straight line = ON, O = OFF)

3 . Look through the vents of the enclosure, you should see a green power indicator LED turn on

+ I don't see a green LED light

  • Make sure the power supply is connected as described
  • Make sure the power terminal wiring is well connected
    • Please review the assembly videos (step MM)
  • It's highly unlikely but maybe a fuse is blown?
  • If a red LED stays lit when the board is powered
 
 

B

Connecting to Pronterface

1 . Make sure you have:

  • Installed the mini Rambo driver
  • Uploaded the Marlin firmware into the micro controller
  • Installed Pronterface before continuing to the following steps
    • Click here to be redirected to our software page

+ I don't see the Rambo USB connection

  • Make sure the printer is powered ON (step A)
  • Uninstall the Rambo driver from the device manager and reinstall it again
  • Try connecting with another PC

+ I can't connect to Pronterface

  • Make sure the printer is powered ON (step A)
  • Make sure the Baud rate is set at 115 200
  • Make sure the printer is not connected to another software (ex CURA or other)
    • Disconnect from any other software then try reconnecting to pronterface
  • Try connecting with another PC
 
 

C

Testing the movement of the X axis

1 . Make sure you have:

  • Uploaded the Marlin firmware into the micro controller

    • Click here to be redirected to our software page

+ The X axis rack is not moving at all

  • Make sure the X motor connector is plugged onto the right terminal in the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video section KK
  • The motor makes a funny noise
    • Make sure the motor connector is firmly seated onto the microcontroller terminal

+ The X axis rack moves once and then stops moving

+ The X axis rack moves with difficulty

  • Make sure there's little friction between part F and the rail of part A
    • Please review the assembly video step A
  • Add a lubricant to reduce friction
  • Make sure there are no plastic blobs on part F or in the rails of part A
    • Please review the assembly video step A
  • Make sure the X axis gear doesn't exert too much downward pressure on the rack
    • Relieve this pressure by lifting up the X motor
      • Please review the assembly video step N
  • Make sure the backside of the X axis rack (part F) rests flat against part A if not part F will not slide properly
    • Please review the assembly video step AA
  • Make sure the X axis shim is not too thick

+ The X axis is not homing in the right direction

  • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the X motor connector to the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video step KK
  • Make sure the teeth of the X axis rack point downwards

+ The X axis is homing in the right direction but it's not reaching the X endstop limit switch

  • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move manually)
  • Try moving manually the X axis rack and see if it can reach the endstop switch (you should hear a click) if not :

+ The X axis is reaching the X endstop limit switch but the rack is not stopping

 
 

D

Testing the movement of the Y axis

+ The Y axis rack is not moving at all

  • Make sure the Y motor connector is plugged onto the right terminal in the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video section KK
  • The motor makes a funny noise
    • Make sure the motor connector is firmly seated onto the microcontroller terminal

+ The Y axis rack moves once and then stops moving

+ The Y axis rack moves with difficulty

  • Make sure there's little friction between part D and the rail of part C
    • Please review the assembly video step A
  • Add a lubricant to reduce friction
  • Make sure there are no plastic blobs on part D or in the rails of part C
    • Please review the assembly video step A
  • Make sure the Y axis gear doesn't exert too much lateral pressure on the rack
    • Relieve this pressure by pushing the Y motor against the rack
      • Please review the assembly video step DD
    • Make sure the Y lateral support (part J) is not too tight
      • Try unscrewing and readjusting the Y rail
    • Make sure the print bed lateral supports (parts P) are not too tight
      • Try unscrewing and readjusting parts P (left and right)

+ The Y axis is not homing in the right direction

  • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the Y motor connector to the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video step KK
  • Make sure the teeth of the Y axis rack point on the same direction as shown in the assembly video (section DD)

+ The Y axis is homing in the right direction but it's not reaching the Y endstop limit switch

  • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move manually)
  • Try moving manually the Y axis rack and see if it can reach the endstop switch (you should hear a click) if not :
    • Try unscrewing and readjusting the Y rail
    • Try unscrewing and readjusting the print bed lateral supports (parts P)
    • If the Y rack is not reaching at all the Y endstop you can add 1 x Phillips screw-3/8 in at the tip of the Y rack

+ The Y axis is reaching the Y endstop limit switch but the rack is not stopping

+ The Y axis gear seems to be skipping steps or just simply unable to move the Y axis rack

  • Make sure there are no pieces of plastic in the racks, between the teeth of the gears and in the rails
  • Make sure to minimize the gap between the teeth of the Y axis rack and the gear (but not too tight)
    • Please review the assembly video step DD
  • Make sure the Y lateral support (part J) is not too tight
    • Try unscrewing and readjusting the Y rail
      • Make sure the print bed lateral supports (parts P) are not too tight
        • Try unscrewing and readjusting them
 
 

E

Testing the movement of the Z axis

IMPORTANT:

Before moving on with the Z axis startup

  • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move )
    • Lift the Z axis rack manually (part C) and adjust the distance between the print bed and the hotend nozzle by turning the thumb wheel until you hear the click of the Z endstop
      • At this stage you don't need to be too precise (you simply don't want the hotend to crash into the printbed)

+ The Z axis rack is not moving at all

  • Make sure the Z motor connector is plugged onto the right terminal in the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video section KK
  • The motor makes a funny noise
    • Make sure the motor connector is firmly seated onto the microcontroller terminal

+ The Z axis rack moves once and then stops moving

+ The Z axis rack moves with difficulty

  • Make sure there's little friction between part C and the rails of part A and B especially here
    • Sand locally where there is friction on the sides of parts A and B (don't over sand)
  • Add a lubricant to reduce friction
  • Make sure there are no plastic blobs on part C or in the rails of part A and B
    • Please review the assembly video step A
  • Make sure the Z axis gear doesn't exert too much lateral pressure on the rack
  • Try sanding slightly the left side of the Z lateral support-part Q
  • Make sure to pinch properly the nylon tube in the Z siderail support

+ The Z axis is not homing in the right direction

  • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the Z motor connector to the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video step KK

+ The Z axis is homing in the right direction but it's not reaching the Z endstop limit switch

  • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move manually)
  • Try moving manually the Z axis rack and see if it can reach the endstop switch (you should hear a click) if not:
    • Try sanding slightly the left side of the Z lateral support-part Q
    • Make sure to pinch properly the nylon tube in the Z siderail support
    • Sand locally where there's friction on the sides of parts A & B
      • Don't over sand
    • You might need to relief the pressure between the Z axis rack and pinion (not too much or else the teeth will skip)
    • Make sure there are no pieces of plastic in the racks, between the teeth of the gears and in the rails

+ The Z axis is reaching the Z endstop limit switch but the rack is not stopping

+ The Z axis gear seems to be skipping steps or simply unable to lift the print platform (part C)

  • Make sure there are no pieces of plastic in the racks, between the teeth of the gears and in the rails
  • Try sanding slightly the left side of the Z lateral support-part Q
  • Make sure to pinch properly the nylon tube in the Z siderail support
  • Sand locally where there's friction on the sides of parts A and B
    • Don't over sand
  • Make sure to minimize the gap between the teeth of the Z axis rack and the gear (but not too tight)
    • Please review the assembly video step PP
 
 

F

Testing the hotend and its cooling fan (FAN2)

IMPORTANT:

Make sure you never exceed 240 deg C since you might permanently damage the Bowden tube

  • please note there is a software temperature lockout at 240 deg C

+ I can't read the temperature with Pronterface

  • Make sure the thermistor is plugged properly into the microcontroller
    • Please review the assembly video step KK
  • Make sure the thermistor is not damaged
  • Measure the thermistor's electrical resistance with a multimeter
    • You should read something close to 100K
      • If you read a value of 1
        • Your circuit is open or your thermistor is damaged

+ The hotend cooling fan (FAN2) is not starting automatically when the hotend temperature reaches 50 deg

  • Make sure you've properly connected the fan (FAN2) to the microcontroller
    • Please review the assembly video step KK
      • Don't forget FAN 2 is polarized meaning you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
      • FAN2 connector does not have any locking mechanism, just make sure it did not get unplugged during the assembly in section OO
 
 

G

Testing the extruder

IMPORTANT:

Make sure to load a PLA filament into the printer before moving ahead with the extruder startup

+ Please follow these steps:

  • First heat up the hotend to 210 deg C
  • Cut the tip of the filament at an angle of 45 deg
  • Straighten about 2 in of filament (please watch the video on the left)
  • Squeeze the handle of the extruder and Insert the filament into the bowden tube all the way untill it reaches the hotend (please watch the video on the left)
  • Now you're ready to test the extruder

+ The extruder is not turning counter clockwise

  • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the extruder motor connector to the micro controller
    • Please review the assembly video step KK

If you have extrusion problems please refer to section I

 
 

H

Testing the side cooling fans (FAN1)

+ Although not shown clearly in the video you have to send a Gcode command to start the side cooling fans (FAN1)

  • Write M106S255 in the command bar of Pronterface and click on send
    • Both fans should start if not:
      • Make sure they were properly connected to the micro controller
      • Don't forget FAN 1 is polarized meaning you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
      • FAN2 connector has a locking mechanism, just make sure it did not get unplugged during the assembly in section OO
  • Write M107 (or M106S0) in the command bar to stop the side cooling fans (FAN1)
 
 

I

Extrusion problems

If you're experiencing some under extrusion try the following steps and see which one works but first please make sure to tighten properly the set screw of the hobbed gear on the flat side of the motor shaft (see section K in the assembly videos page)

+ Make sure the filament is rolling freely and is not tangled

+ If you have the old design of part M (before june 2018) simply reprint and install the new design or make your extruder more powerful by:

  • Adding one or two nuts to the extruder
    • If you hear a clicking noise
      • The spring is too compressed
      • The nozzle is too close to the printbed

+ Make sure your hotend or nozzle are not clogged

  • Make sure the hotend temperature is at least 185 °C
  • Squeeze the extruder handle and push the filament out of the hotend (you have to force a little)
    • If the filament curls up then your hotend or nozzle are partially clogged
    • If nothing comes out then your hotend or nozzle are completely clogged
      • Let's start by removing the filament
        • Increase the temperature of the hotend to 230 deg C
        • Squeeze the extruder handle, manually push the filament then pull it out
  • If your hotend is clogged there may be a gap between the tube and the heater block
    • Increase the temperature of the hotend to 230 deg C
    • Remove and reinsert the bowden tube as many times until the hotend is unclogged
      • Watch the video in the gallery
    • Once finished reinsert the Bowden tube 5 cm into the hotend then lift the black clip and insert the locking collet
      • Refer to our assembly videos section KK
  • If your nozzle (0.4 mm) is clogged
    • Warm the hotend up to 230 ° C
    • Use an acupuncture needle to unclog the 0.4 mm hole
      • A needle of about 0.3 mm in diameter x 25 mm in length should do the job
    • Keep inserting and removing the needle until the nozzle is unclogged
    • The filament should come out fairly straight from the nozzle with no curling
    • If the needle doesn't work then unscrew the nozzle while it's hot, soak it in acetone for one day clean it up and reinstall it.

+ The filament is completely jammed in the hot end

  • Increase the temperature of the hotend to 230 deg C
  • Squeeze the extruder handle, manually push the filament then pull it out

+ The extruder is making a clicking sound

  • Your hotend might be clogged
  • The hotend is too close to the print bed
  • The spring of the extruder is too compressed

+ The hotend temperature is varying a lot and i'm getting cold extrusion or thermal runaway error messages

Sometimes if your room is cold (air conditioned or unheated) or there's a direct draft on the printer you might experience some printing issues that have nothing to do with the printer but rather to the surrounding environment

  • The cold room might cause your hotend temperature to fluctuate by as much as 10 deg C and even higher
    • This will leave ugly lines on the print
    • The extruder might start clicking
    • The printer might even stop working if the hotend temperature drops below 180 deg C
      • cold extrusion or thermal runaway error messages
  • If you can't print in a different room then start by reducing the fan speed FAN1 in CURA and see if the temperature settles down
    • If reducing the fan speed doesn't work then try to raise the printing temperature by 5 or 10 deg C
    • You can also try to autotune the temperature PID loop

+ I'm experiencing some delamination issues

If the room is too cold you might also experience some delamination of the layers

  • The temperature of the hotend is hot enough to extrude the filament but the room temperature is too low for the extruded filament to stick properly to the previous layer
  • If you can't print in another room, you can increase the hotend temperature by 5 or 10 deg C
 
 

J

End of the startup

Important: 

  • If ever the printer starts acting funny you can reset the printer through Pronterface or simply reinstall the Marlin firmware (please go to section 5 of our download page)
  • Before disconnecting from Pronterface make sure to TURN OFF the heating element of the hotend by clicking on heater OFF in pronterface
  • If you simply disconnect the printer your heating element keeps heating!!!
  • Once you turned off the heater you can disconnect and shut off the printer
  • Never leave ULIO running unattended

 

 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
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