Sentry Page Protection

Startup

 

Make sure to install all of the required programs & drivers before you continue to the following steps

  • Click here to be redirected to the software download page

 

 

A

Powering up the printer

  • Plug the power supply into the 120 VAC wall outlet 
    • You should see a green light on the power supply
  • Plug the power  supply into the DC power jack of the printer and turn ON the switch ( straight line = ON, O = OFF)
  • Look through the vents of the bottom enclosure you should see a green power indicator LED turn on, if not:
    • Make sure the power supply is connected as described
    • Make sure the power terminal wiring is well connected
      • Please review the assembly videos (step MM)
    • It's highly unlikely but maybe a fuse is blown? 
  • Please note that if the hotend heater (red) and the fan LEDs stay lit when the board is powered
 
 

B

Connecting to the printer via USB

Make sure you have installed the mini Rambo driver, uploaded the Marlin firmware into the micro controller and installed Pronterface before continuing to the following steps

  • Click here to be redirected to the software download page
  • Make sure you see the Rambo connection in your device manager, if not:

    • Make sure the printer is powered ON as described in step A

    • The printer can not connect to Pronterface if it's already communicationg with a nother software (ex CURA or other)

      • Disconnect from other softwares then try to connect to pronterface again 

    • Is the mini rambo driver installed properly on your PC (check your USB connections in your device manager)
      • If necessary try uninstalling the mini rambo driver and reinstall it 
    • You can try switching to another computer

 
 

C

Testing the movement of the X axis

Please make sure you installed the Marlin firmware into your micro controller

  • If the X axis rack is not moving at all:
    • Make sure the X motor connector is plugged in the right terminal on the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video section KK
  • If the X axis is not homing in the right direction:
    • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the X motor connector to the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
    • Make sure the teeth of the X axis rack point downwards
  • If the X axis is homing in the right direction but it's not reaching the X endstop limit switch
    • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move manually)
    • Try moving manually the X axis rack and see if it can reach the endstop switch (you should hear a click) if not :
      • Try unscrewing slightly the top bolts of the X rack top holder
      • Make sure the wire bundle of the hot end carrier is not blocking the X rack movement
        • Please review the assembly video step KK
  • If the X axis is reaching the X endstop limit switch but the rack is not stopping:
    • Make sure the X endstop limit switch is properly connected to the right terminal in the micro controller:
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
    • Make sure the X endstop limit switch is properly wired (meaning the proper the pins on the switch)
      • Please review the assembly video step X
 
 

D

Testing the movement of the Y axis

  • If the Y axis rack is not moving at all:
    • Make sure the Y motor connector is plugged in the right terminal on the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video section KK
  • If the Y axis is not homing in the right direction:
    • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the Y motor connector to the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
    • Make sure the teeth of the Y axis rack point on the same side as shown in the assembly video (section DD)
  • If the Y axis is homing in the right direction but it's not reaching the Y endstop limit switch
    • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move manually)
    • Try moving manually the Y axis rack and see if it can reach the endstop switch (you should hear a click) if not :
  • If the Y axis is reaching the Y endstop limit switch but the rack is not stopping:
    • Make sure the Y endstop limit switch is properly connected to the right terminal in the micro controller:
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
    • Make sure the Y endstop limit switch is properly wired (meaning the proper the pins on the switch)
      • Please review the assembly video step FF
  • The Y axis gear seems to be skipping steps or just simply unable to move the Y axis rack :
    • Make sure there are no pieces of plastic in the racks, between the teeth of the gears and in the rails
    • Make sure to minimize the gap between the teeth of the Y axis rack and the gear (but not too tight)

 

 
 

E

Testing the movement of the Z axis

IMPORTANT:

Before moving on with the Z axis startup:

  • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move )
    • Lift the Z axis rack manually (part C) and adjust the distance between the print bed and the hotend nozzle by turning the thumb wheel until you hear the click of the Z endstop
      • At this stage you don't need to be too precise (you simply don't want the hotend to crash into the printbed) 
  • If the Z axis rack is not moving at all:
    • Make sure the Z motor connector is plugged in the right terminal on the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video section KK
  • If the Z axis is not homing in the right direction:
    • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the Z motor connector to the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
  • If the Z axis is homing in the right direction but it's not reaching the Y endstop limit switch
    • First de-energize the motors by clicking on the button motors OFF in Pronterface (or else the motors won't move )
    • Try moving manually the Z axis rack and see if it can reach the endstop switch (you should hear a click) if not :
  • If the Z axis is reaching the Z endstop limit switch but the rack is not stopping:
    • Make sure the Z endstop limit switch is properly connected to the right terminal in the micro controller:
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
    • Make sure the Z endstop limit switch is properly wired (meaning the proper the pins on the switch)
      • Please review the assembly video step GG
  • The Z axis gear seems to be skipping steps or just simply unable to lift the print platform (part C) :
    • Make sure there are no pieces of plastic in the racks, between the teeth of the gears and in the rails
    • Make sure to minimize the gap between the teeth of the Z axis rack and the gear (but not too tight)
    • You might need to scale up the Z gear on the X & Y  axis (max 3%)
      • Please review the STL download page

 

 
 

F

Testing the hotend and its cooling fan (FAN2)

  • Make sure you never exceed 240 deg C since you might permanently damage the Bowden tube
    • There is a firmware lockout
  • Once the temperature reaches 50 deg C the hotend cooling fan (FAN2) should automatically start if not:
    • Please review the assembly video step KK
      • Don't forget FAN 2 is polarized meaning you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
      • FAN2 connector does not have any locking mechanism, just make sure it did not get unplugged during the assembly in section OO
  • If you don't read the room temperature with Pronterface:
    • Make sure the thermistor is plugged properly into the microcontroller
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
    • Make sure the thermistor is not damaged
      • Measure the thermistor's electrical resistance with a multimeter
        • You should read something close to 100K
        • If you read a value of 1 
          • Your circuit is open or your thermistor is damaged
 
 

G

Testing the extruder

IMPORTANT:

Make sure to load a PLA filament into the printer before moving on with the extruder startup. Please follow these steps:

  • First heat up the hotend to 210 deg C
    • Cut the tip of the filament at an angle of 45 deg
    • Straighten about 2 in of filament (please watch the video on the left)
    • Squeeze the handle of the extruder and Insert the filament into the bowden tube all the way untill it reaches the hotend (please watch the video on the left)
    • Now you're ready to test the extruder 
  • If the extruder is turning clockwise (wrong direction)
    • Make sure to follow the proper color code when plugging the extruder motor connector to the micro controller
      • Please review the assembly video step KK
  • If you assembled the hotend and installed the Bowden tube properly you should not have any problems extruding if not:
    • Squeeze the extruder handle and make sure you can manually push the filament out the nozzle (you do have to force a little but not too much) if nothing comes out:
      • Your nozzle could be jammed, so you have two scenarios: 

1. If the Bowden tube wasn't properly installed there may be a gap between the tube and the heater block

  • Remove the filament completely from the printer (make sure the hot nozzle temperature is at least 185 ° C)
  • Increase the temperature of the hot nozzle to 230 degrees C
  • Remove and reinsert the bowden tube until as many times as necessary until the hotend is unclogged (Please watch the video on the left hand side)
  • Once finished reinsert the Bowden tube into the nozzle up to 5 cm and lift the black clip
    • Refer to our assembly videos section KK

2. Although it's highly unlikely at first but the nozzle could be clogged:

  • Warm the hotend up to 230 ° C and use an acupuncture needle to unclog the hole (a needle of about 0.3 x 25 mm should do the job)
  • Keep inserting and removing the needle until the Jam is gone (the filament should come out fairly straight from the nozzle with no curling)
  • If the needle doesn't work then unscrew the hot nozzle, soak it in acetone for one day,clean it up and reinstall it.
  • You can make your extruder more powerful if you compress the spring even more by adding one or even two nuts on the M3-25 (the bolt that holds the spring in place)

 

 
 

H

Testing the side cooling fans (FAN1)

Although not shown clearly in the video you have to send a Gcode command to start the side cooling fans (FAN1)

  • Write M106S255 in the command bar of Pronterface and click on send
    • Both fans should start if not
      • Make sure they were properly connected to the micro controller  
        • Don't forget FAN 1 is polarized meaning you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
        • FAN2 connector has a locking mechanism, just make sure it did not get unplugged during the assembly in section OO
  • Write M107 (or M106S0) in the command bar of Pronterface and click on send
    • This will stop the side cooling fans (FAN1)
 
 

I

Surrounding conditions and extrusion problems

  • If your room is cold (air conditioned or unheated) and/or there's an air draft you might experience some printing issues that have nothing to do with the printer but rather to the surrounding environment:
    • The cold room might cause your hotend temperature to fluctuate by as much as 10 deg C and even more
      • The printer might stop working if the hotend temperature drops below 180 deg C (cold extrusion or thermal runaway error messages) and/or you might experiment some under extrusion
        • If that's the case you can start by reducing the fan speed FAN1 until the temperature settles down
          • If reducing the fan speed doesn't work try to autotune the PID loop watch this video by Thomas Sanladerer
    • You might also experiment some delamination of the layers:
      • The temperature of the hotend is hot enough to extrude the filament but the room temperature is too low for the extruded filament to stick properly to the previous layer 
        • You can increase the hotend temperature by 5 or maybe 10 deg C
  • If the room and hotend temperatures are both fine but you're still experiencing some under extrusion:
    • Make sure the filament spool is turning freely
    • Make sure the filament is not sticky or tangled
    • Make sure your hotend is not jammed (see startup section step G)
  • If your extrusion is fine but you have gaps between each layer at the bottom and top surface:
 
 

J

End of the startup

Important: 

  • If ever the printer starts acting funny you can reset the printer through Pronterface or simply reinstall the Marlin firmware (please go to section 5 from our download page)
  • Before disconnecting from Pronterface make sure to TURN OFF the heating element of the hotend by clicking on heater OFF in pronterface
  • If you simply disconnect the printer your heating element keeps heating!!!
  • Once you turned it off you can disconnect and shut off the printer

 

 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
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