Sentry Page Protection

leveling & calibration


1. Print bed leveling

A) Make sure the print bed sits flat onto the Y axis rack

B) Properly install the acrylic buildtak sheet into the print bed

C) Adjusting the gap between the print bed and the tip of the Hotend nozzle 

  • Start by lifting manually the Z axis rack and keep adjusting the Z thumb wheel until you hear the Z axis end switch click at the same time that the distance between the print bed and the tip of the hotend nozzle is approximately 0.25 mm (eyeball it for now)

  • Connect to Pronterface

    • Make sure the nozzle is clean (meaning no exceeding filament)

      • Heat the hotend and cleanup the nozzle

    • Home the X, Y and Z axis with Pronterface

    • With Pronterface Move the hotend to the center of the print bed (X : 50 mm, Y : 50 mm)

      • Please note that you can’t move the X & Y axis manually since the stepper motors are energized

    • Insert a single sheet of paper between the hotend nozzle and the printbed

    • Keep homing the Z axis and adjusting the Z thumb wheel. until you start feeling the paper start to rub against the nozzle with a small amount of friction or drag. However you should still be able to move the paper around

      • Too much resistance might eventually jam your hotend

        • You might even hear the extruder click

      • Very little resistance will result in the first layer not sticking well to the print bed

  • Spray some 3D lac onto your print bed and do a couple of first layer test prints, it should come out looking like this.

    • If not repeat steps A,B and C if necessary

    • Adding a brim to a 3D model with a small footprint will help with bed adhesion

D) You tried adjusting the distance between the print bed and the tip of the hotend nozzle (step C) but the print bed is very uneven

  • No worries we will do a manual mesh bed leveling

    • Mesh Bed Leveling means you can measure a grid of Z heights and compensate for variations in height across the bed while printing

    • No leveling probe is required only a sheet of paper

    • Make sure you have installed the latest version of Marlin firmware into your micro controller (june 2018 or later)

    • You should repeat these steps every time your first layer doesn't stick well to the print bed

  • Connect to Pronterface

1. Insert a sheet of paper under the hot end nozzle

2. Write G29 S1 in the command line then click on send

  • This will start the mesh bed leveling process

  • You only need to send this command once at the beginning of the mesh bed leveling

  • First the X, Y and Z axes will home

  • Second the printer will position the hot end over the first point of the grid (9 points will be measured)

3. Slide back and forth the sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle and feel how the paper rubs against the nozzle. There should be a small amount of friction or drag but you should still be able to move the paper around

  • If there's too much resistance lower the printbed

  • If there's insufficient resistance raise the printbed

  • Once you've adjusted the proper height of the print bed

    • Write G29 S2 in the command line and click on send (please note you have to repeat the code ''G29 S2'' for every single location on the grid)

      • This code will save the Z offset at that specific position of the grid

      • This code will also move the hot end to the next location of the grid

  • Repeat these steps until you've adjusted the 9 points of the grid

4. Once you've finished adjusting and saving all 9 points 

  • Write M500 in the command line and click on send

    • This will save the Z height variations of the mesh into the EEPROM

  • To view the Z variations of your print bed grid write G29 S0 and click on send

2. Calibration (steps/mm)

  • Print a 20 x 20 x 20 mm test cube from Thingiverse

    • Let's say your cube actually measures 17 x 20 x 20 mm

    • Correct the steps/mm of the X axis and redownload the Marlin firmware back into the microcontroller (watch the following video)

    • Since EEPROM is enabled, every time you reinstall the Marlin firmware you’ll have to save the new settings into the EEPROM:

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