Sentry Page Protection

leveling & calibration


1. Print bed leveling

A) Make sure the print bed sits flat onto the Y axis rack

B) Properly install the acrylic buildtak sheet into the print bed

C) Adjusting the gap between the print bed and the tip of the Hotend nozzle 

  • Start by lifting manually the Z axis rack and keep adjusting the Z thumb wheel until you hear the Z axis end switch click at the same time that the distance between the print bed and the tip of the hotend nozzle is approximately 0.25 mm (eyeball it for now)

  • Connect to Pronterface

    • Make sure the nozzle is clean (meaning no exceeding filament)

      • Heat the hotend and cleanup the nozzle

    • Home the X, Y and Z axis with Pronterface

    • With Pronterface Move the hotend to the center of the print bed (X : 50 mm, Y : 50 mm)

      • Please note that you can’t move the X & Y axis manually since the stepper motors are energized

    • Insert a single sheet of paper between the hotend nozzle and the printbed

    • Keep homing the Z axis and adjusting the Z thumb wheel. until you start feeling the paper start to rub against the nozzle with a small amount of friction or drag. However you should still be able to move the paper around

      • Too much resistance might eventually jam your hotend

        • You might even hear the extruder click

      • Very little resistance will result in the first layer not sticking well to the print bed

  • Spray some 3D lac onto your print bed and do a couple of first layer test prints, it should come out looking like this.

    • If not repeat steps A,B and C if necessary

    • Adding a brim to a 3D model with a small footprint will help with bed adhesion

D) You tried adjusting the distance between the print bed and the tip of the hotend nozzle (step C) but the print bed is very uneven

2. Calibration (steps/mm)

  • Print a 20 x 20 x 20 mm test cube from Thingiverse

    • Let's say your cube actually measures 17 x 20 x 20 mm

    • Correct the steps/mm of the X axis and redownload the Marlin firmware back into the microcontroller (watch the following video)

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