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Assembly videos


Getting started

  • Layout all the parts on a flat table
    • For more information visit the complete bill of material on our main download page
    • We strongly recommend to sort the fasteners into small separate containers
  • Make sure to select the No Run or Ultra Gel when purchasing the Krazy or super glue 
  • Assembling the ULIO 3D printer is a learning experience so please take the time you need to properly assemble the printer

Fasteners

Important notice: The type and length of the screws and bolts are indicated on the printer itself by o and |

  • M4-50: This is the only stainless steel bolt (50 mm) in the kit
  • M3-25: This is the long (L) black bolt (25 mm) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by ooo
  • M3-20: This is the medium sized (M) black bolt (20 mm) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by oo
  • M3-12: This is the small (S) black bolt (12 mm) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by o
  • Phillips #2 screws-1/2 in: This is the long (L) screw (1/2 in.) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by |||
  • Phillips #2 screws-3/8 in: This is the medium sized (M) screw (3/8 in.) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by ||
  • Phillips #2 screws-1/4 in: This is the small (S) screw (1/4 in.) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by |

 

 

A

Sanding

  • 1 x sheet of sandpaper (200 to 300 grains)
  • Make sure there are no blobs of plastic between the teeth of the racks & pinions, in the railings and all of the openings
  • All mobile parts should move with ease BEFORE moving forward with the assembly.
  • If required please sand locally where there is friction
  • Please note the x axis rack is not shown in the video

 

 

B

preparing the X, Y and Z gears FIT ON THE MOTOR SHAFT

  • 1 x 5 mm drill bit 
  • Verify if the X, Y and Z gears fit well onto the motor shaft
    • If there is a small gap you can add later on 1 to 2 drops of Krazy glue or super glue gel  (see steps M, DD and PP)
      • Be sure to keep the glue away from the motor base
    • If the opening is too small you can manually drill out a 5 mm hole (watch the video on the left)
 
 

c

WIRE Tagging

  • 1 x stickers sheet
  • The hot end central cooling fan (FAN2) and the thermistor (T0) have similar wiring connectors
  • Note that the FAN1 tag is not shown in the video
 
 

d

Installing the X axis motor

  • 4 x M3-25
 
 

e

Installing the Z axis motor

  • 4 x M3-25
 
 

f

Installing the Y axis motor

  • 4 x M3-25
 
 

g

Installing the Extruder motor

  • 2 x M3-20
  • Please make sure to clean out all the openings from excess blobs or strings
 
 

h

Extruder assembly (Screw in Coupler)

  • 1 x M3-25
  • 1 x screw in coupler
  • If the hole of the screw in coupler is too tight or too loose you can:
    • Sand the hole (too tight)
      • You can use a plier if you have a lot of trouble screwing in the coupler
    • Glue the screw in coupler (too loose)
    • Use a screw thread hand tap 
 
 

i

Extruder assembly (handle)

  • 1 x ball bearing
  • 1 x M3-12
  • 2 M3 flat washers
  • Please make sure to clean out the ball bearing cavity from excess blobs or strings
  • This step is important for proper extrusion
    • DO NOT forget to install the washers on each side of the ball bearing
  • Make sure the ball bearing is moving freely

 

 
 

j

Extruder assembly (spring)

  • 1 x M3-20
  • 1 x M3 flat washers
  • 1 x spring
  • If ever you have extrusion problems you can always compress the spring even more by adding one or even two nuts on the M3-25 (the bolt that holds the spring in place)

 

 
 

k

Extruder assembly (hobbed gear)

  • 1 x hobbed gear
  • 1 x hobbed gear set screw
  • 6 in of 1.75 mm PLA filament (for alignement purposes only)
  • This step is important for proper extrusion
    • Make sure there are no excess blobs or strings in the openings where the filament passes
    • Make sure the hole opening in the handle is well aligned with the groove of the hobbed gear and the hole opening of the screw in coupler
  • Please make sure to tighten properly the set screw of the hobbed gear on the flat side of the motor shaft

 

 
 

l

X axis Rack preparation

  • 4 x M3-12
  • 4 x M3 nuts
  • Plasticine
  • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
  • Make sure to insert the nuts with the sides parallel to the openings or else they will not fit
  • Make sure to center the nuts with a small allen key and a bolt
  • Once centered spread the plasticine to make sure the nut is set into place

 

 
 

M

x axis rack and pinion assembly

  • Krazy or super glue gel
  • Please make sure the X axis rack moves freely within the groove of part A (if not go back to step A or the STL files)
  • Make sure to install the X axis rack with the teeth facing down
  • When you are absolutely certain that the gear fits well onto the motor shaft:
    • Add inside the opening 1 to 2 drops of Krazy / super glue gel (make sure to keep the glue away from the motor base)
    • Align the flat side of the motor shaft with the flat side of the gear
    • Hold the backside of the motor and push the gear onto the motor shaft
      • Do not tap on the gear you might permanently damage the motor
    • Allow the glue to dry for 5 to 10 minutes

NB: If you have to remove the gear once it's glued

  1. Just break the head of the gear (use regular pliers)
  2. Unscrew the 4 bolts of the motor
  3. Remove the motor from its place
  4. Use cutting pliers and break the plastic gear into small pieces
 
 

N

x axis rack and pinion adjustment (This step is required only if the X axis rack is not moving with ease) 

  • You can ease the pressure of the rack and pinion teeth by slightly lifting up the X axis motor: 
    • Unscrew the bolts of the motor by half a turn
    • Push the X motor up
    • Retighten the motor bolts
    • Make sure the X axis rack moves freely
 
 

O

Hotend assembly ( heatsink, heater block and nozzle)

  • 1 x heatsink
  • 1 x heater block
  • 1 x nozzle
  • Important notice: At 39 sec in the video please make sure to hold the nozzle with your finger while retightening the heatsink into the heater block
  • Please refer to E3D online's documentation for more detailed assembly information

 

 
 

P

Hotend assembly (thermistor and heater cartridge)

  • 1 x thermistor and 1 x set screw
  • 1 x heating cartridge and 1 x set bolt
  • 1 Bowden tube plastic coupler
  • 1 x tie rap
  • You must tighten the bolt holding the heating cartridge in the aluminum block
    • Make sure the heater cartridge does not move
    • It's quite normal to see the aluminum block bend a little 
  • Unlike the heating block, do not  over tighten the thermistor screw otherwise you risk permanent damage
    • Stop tightening as soon as you feel a bit of resistance
    • Make sure the thermistor does not move
    • Make sure to bend and tie rap the thermistor cable to the wiring of the heater cartridge
  • Please refer to E3D online's documentation for more detailed assembly information
 
 

Q

Hotend installation

  • 2 x M4-50
  • 2 x M4 nuts
  • Please make sure to clean out all the openings from excess blobs or strings
  • It is highly recommended to screw in the M4-50 bolts and then take them out, before installing the hotend in order to prep the openings
  • Although using the M4 nuts is preferable, you can skip this step if you choose to do so
  • Although not shown in the video, the thermistor's (T0) wires should be attached to the heater's catrtidge wire (see the previous step P)
 
 

R

Side cooling fans installation (FAN1)

  • 8 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • DO NOT hold the fans with the blades otherwise you risk damaging them
 
 

S

Hotend cooling fan assembly and installation (FAN2)

  • 4 x Phillips screws-5/8 in.
    • You will find these 4 screws in the bag of the hotend
  • DO NOT hold the fans with the blades otherwise you risk damaging them
 
 

T

Hotend and fans wiring connections

  • Please note that The thermistor (T0) and the hot end cooling fan (FAN2) have similar wire connectors
  • Pay attention to the length of the wires when wiring the side cooling fans (FAN 1)
    • The longer connector connects to the fan on the left while the shorter one connects to the fan on the right
  • Although not shown in the video, the thermistor's (T0) wires should be attached to the heater's catrtidge wire (see step P)
  • Make sure the attached bundle of wires look exactly as shown in the video
    • if the wires are sticking out they will restrict the movement of the X axis rack
 
 

U

Hotend Bowden tube installation

  • Make sure to insert the Bowden tube 5 cm into the heatsink
    • Otherwise you risk clogging the hotend
  • Be sure to lock into place the Bowden tube by lifting the black plastic coupler or by inserting the retaining clip
    • Make sure to push downward the Bowden tube while lifting the coupler or while installing the retaining clip
  • If you experience difficulty inserting the bowden tube into the hotend simply sand the outer surface of the tube until it fits

  

 
 

V

Hotend silicone cover installation

  • Installing a silicone cover will prevent the PLA from sticking to the nozzle and the heater block 
  • Although not necessary,  you might have to trim the silicone cover as shown in the video
 
 

W

Mechanical endstop switch preparation

  • Make sure to bend the pins in the correct direction

 

 

 

X

X axis mechanical endstop switch installation

  • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • The endstop switch is non-polarised (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

Y

Mounting the hotend assembly on the X axis rack

  • 4 x M3-12
  • Please handle this part gently (the ears might break off)
    • If it's difficult to screw the M3 bolts into the X axis rack, do not force,  this either means:
      • The nuts are not properly centered or
      • There might still be some plastic blobs or strings in the openings 
 
 

Z

X axis rack holder preparation

  • 3 x M3 nuts
  • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
  • Make sure to center the nuts with a small allen key and a bolt
  • Once centered spread the plasticine to make sure the nut is set into place
 
 

AA

X axis rack holder installation

  • 3 x M3 flat washers
  • 3 x M3-12 bolts
  • Do not forget to install the 3 washers
  • Tighten the M3-12 bolts until you feel a slight restriction in movement of the X axis rack
    • Do not over tighten and make sure the X axis rack moves with ease
  • Please make sure the backside of the X axis rack (part F) rests flat against part A, if not part F will not slide properly
 
 

BB

Mounting the extruder

  • 3 x M3-20
  • Handle this part with care

 

 
 

CC

Installing the leveling screws into the Y axis rack

  • 4 x Phillips screws-1/4 in
  • Make sure to have the head of the screws flush with the Y axis rack surface
  • Although not shown in the video you can add 1 x Phillips screw-3/8 in at the tip of the Y rack 

 

 
 

DD

Y AXIS RACK & PINION ASSEMBLY and adjustment

  • Krazy or super glue gel
  • Please make sure the Y axis rack moves freely within the groove of part A (if not go back to step A or the STL files)
  • Make sure to install the Y axis rack with the teeth facing the same direction as shown in the video
  • When you are absolutely certain that the gear fits well onto the motor shaft:
    • Add inside the opening 1 to 2 drops of Krazy / super glue gel (make sure to keep the glue away from the motor base)
    • Align the flat side of the motor shaft with the flat side of the gear
    • Hold the backside of the motor and push the gear onto the motor shaft
      • Do not tap on the gear you might permanently damage the motor
    • Allow the glue to dry for 5 to 10 minutes

NB: If you have to remove the gear once it's glued

  1. Just break the head of the gear (use regular pliers)
  2. Unscrew the 4 bolts of the motor
  3. Remove the motor from its place
  4. Use cutting pliers and break the plastic gear into small pieces
  • Make sure to minimize the gap between the teeth of the Y axis rack and the gear
    • Unscrew the bolts of the Y motor by half a turn
    • Push the Y motor towards the teeth of the Y rack
    • Double check the Y rack still moves with ease
    • Retighten the Y motor bolts
 
 

EE

Wiring the X, Y, Z and extruder motors

  • Please take the time to properly wire up the motors
 
 

FF

Y AXIS MECHANICAL ENDSTOP SWITCH INSTALLATION

  • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • The endstop switch is non-polarised (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

GG

Z AXIS MECHANICAL ENDSTOP SWITCH INSTALLATION

  • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • The endstop switch is non-polarised (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

HH

Cable management (Hotend, Fan1, Fan2)

  • One (1) 3/8 in. Black split tubing 16 in long 
  • Tie raps
  • The heater cartridge (Tagged as Extruder) is non-polarized (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

II

Cable management ( Y motor, Y endstop and Z endstop)

  • Tie raps
  • One (1) 1/4 in. Black split tubing 8 in long
  • Once finished make sure to tie rap both cables (HH & II) so it doesn't get in the way of the Y axis rack
 
 

JJ

Cable management ( X motor, Extruder motor and X endstop)

  • Scotch tape
  • Tie raps
  • Please use scotch tape to bundle up the wires together to make sure the cables will fit into the groove of the back covers (see section WW below)  
 
 

KK

Microcontroller connections

  • Static electricity might permanently damage your microcontroller. Make sure to ground yourself before working with electronics.
    • Try as much as possible not to touch the PCB circuit with your hands
  • Please take your time to properly wire up the microcontroller
  • Please follow the color code of the X, Y, Z & Extuder motors as shown in the video, otherwise the motors will move in the wrong direction
    • Make sure to press properly the motor terminals against the microcontroller's pins
  • You can't really go wrong while connecting the X, Y & Z end stop switch to the board since the terminals have a one way locking mechanism
  • The thermistor (T0) is non-polarized (meaning you can reverse the wires)
  • FAN 1 is polarized and has a one way locking mechanism, you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
    • The black (neutral) wire is represented by the white color in the picture
  • FAN 2 is polarized and does not have any locking mechanism, you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
    • The black (neutral) wire is represented by the white color in the picture
  • The heater cartridge (Tagged as Extruder) is non-polarized (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

LL

Controller enclosure preparation

  • 4 x M3-20
  • 4 x M3 nuts
  • Plasticine
  • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
  • Make sure to insert the nuts with the sides parallel to the openings or else they will not fit
  • Make sure to center the nuts with a small allen key and a bolt
  • Once centered spread the plasticine to make sure the nut is set into place
 
 

MM

Power wiring and USB panel mount installation

  • VERY IMPORTANT:The power supply is polarized and you can not reverse the wires
    • Make sure to connect the red and the white wire to the terminal block as show in the video
  • Don't forget to tighten up the nut of the DC power jack

 

 
 

NN

Mounting the microcontroller into the enclosure,  connecting the power terminal and the USB panel mount extension

  • 4 x Phillips screws-3/8 in
  • Static electricity might permanently damage your microcontroller. Make sure to ground yourself before working with electronics.
    • Try as much as possible not to touch the PCB circuit with your hands
  • The power supply is polarized and you can not reverse the wires
    • Make sure the red wire is connected to the pin In+ on the PCB Board
    • Make sure the white wire is connected to the pin -PWR on the PCB Board

 

 
 

OO

Cable management and printer assembly

 
 

PP

Z AXIS RACK & PINION ASSEMBLY 

  • Krazy or super glue gel
  • Please make sure the Z axis rack moves freely within the groove of part A and B (if not go back to step A or the STL files)
  • Make sure to install the Z axis rack with the teeth facing the same direction as shown in the video
  • When you are absolutely certain that the gear fits well onto the motor shaft:
    • Add inside the opening 1 to 2 drops of Krazy / super glue gel (make sure to keep the glue away from the motor base)
    • Align the flat side of the motor shaft with the flat side of the gear
    • Hold the backside of the motor and push the gear onto the motor shaft
      • Do not tap on the gear you might permanently damage the motor
    • Allow the glue to dry for 5 to 10 minutes

NB: If you have to remove the gear once it's glued

  1. Just break the head of the gear (use regular pliers)
  2. Unscrew the 4 bolts of the motor
  3. Remove the motor from its place
  4. Use cutting pliers and break the plastic gear into small pieces
 
 

QQ

Z axis lateral support installation

  • 4 x Phillips screws-3/8 in

    New part added on january 2018

    • Simply position and screw the side support while ensuring that the rack of the Z axis moves easily (otherwise review step A or STL files)

      • The side support side should barely touch the sides of part A and B
     
     

    rr

    Y axis side rail installation

    • 3 x M3-20
    • 3 x M3 nuts
    • Simply position the Y-axis side rail while making sure that the Y-axis rack continues to move with ease then screw the bolts and nuts in to place.
     
     

    SS

    Printbed platform preparation

    • 1 x M3 nut
    • 1 x M3-12
    • Plasticine
     
     

    TT

    Printbed preparation and assembly

    • If the acrylic plateform does not fit into part E simply cut off the excess at a local hardware store
    • When tightening the bolt in place, make sure it does not slide under the acrylic plate
     
     

    UU

    Printbed LATERAL SUPPORT INSTALLATION

    • 4 x Phillips screws-1/4 in
    • Simply position and screw the side brackets while making sure the Y-axis rack keeps moving ease
      • The side supports should barely touch the sides of the print bed otherwise reposition the brackets and screw them back into place
      • You can use a 2, 3 or 4 folded piece of paper to adjust the proper distance between part P and the print bed

      

     
     

    VV

    Y AXIS MECHANICAL ENDSTOP cover installation

    • 1 X M3 nut
    • 1 X M3-12
    • Plasticine
     
     

    WW

    Backside cable cover installation

    • 4 x Phillips screws-3/8 in
     
     

    XX

    Z axis leveling screw

    • 1 x M3-25
    • 1 x M3 nut
    • Krazy or super gel glue
    • Be sure to clean the hole openings from blobs and strings
    • Before inserting the nut, screw the M3-25 bolt from the top of the opening to slightly widen the plastic hole (repeat this step 2 to 3 times)
    • If the M3-25 does not screw with ease, do not force it
      • Reclean the openings
    • Although it is not shown in the video, you have to glue part T to the head of the M3-25 bolt with Krazy or super glue
     
     

    YY

    Bowden tube insert into coupler and split tube cover installation

    • Make sure the hotend cable doesn't interfere with the Y axis rack movement
      • You could tie rap the two split tubes together at a height of 1/2 in from the bottom
     
     

    ZZ

    Z axis additional lateral support 

    • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
    • 1 x Nylon tube-1/2 in
    • Flatten the nylon tube by pinching it with a pair of pliers
    • Once in place push it to the left before tightening the screws but make sure it's not rubbing against part A
    • If part C has difficulty going up or down:
      • You can flatten the nylon tube again by pinching it with pliers 
      • Sand the sides of part A  (usually at the top)
      • If it's still too tight you can remove the nylon tube
     
     

    AAA

    INSTALLing a shim on the backside of the Z axis rack (NEW part-JAN 2018)

    • 2 x Phillips screws-3/8 in
    • Screw the shim on the backside of part C to reduce its back and forth wobble (see the picture on the left for an overview of the installation)
      • Make sure that the Z axis rack still moves easily after the addition of the shim (if not reprint a thinner shim)

     

     

     

     

     

     
     

    BBB

    INSTALLing a shim on top of the X axis rack (NEW part -JAN 2018)

    • Krazy or super 
    • Glue a shim between parts I and F to prevent the X axis rack from lifting when it moves to the left (see the picture on the left for an overview of the installation)
    1. Glue the inner siding of the shim to the outer siding of part I with Krazy  or super glue  gel
      • Make sure not to drop any glue on part F
    2. Make sure that the X axis rack still moves easily once you've installed the shim (if not reprint a thinner shim)
     

    Final ADJUSTMENTS

    Be sure to minimize the wobble between all moving parts and reduce the gaps between the teeth of the rack and pinion of the X, Y and Z axes (this is the same concept as tightening a strap on a conventional 3D printer)

    • Adjust the lateral supports of the three axes:
      • X: I
      • Y: J and P
      • Z: Q and V
    • Make sure to install a shim of the correct thickness on the backside of part C (section AAA)
    • Make sure to install a shim of the correct thickness on top of the X-axis rack (section AAA)
    • Move the gear closer to the rack for the X, Y and Z axes (here's an example of the Z axis gear) 
      • Unscrew (1 turn) the 4 bolts of the concerned motor 
        • To adjust the X motor it will be necessary to unscrew part I and the X axis limit switch 
      • Push the motor towards the rack
      • Secure the 4 bolts

    Make sure the racks of the X, Y and Z axes move easily if not:

    • Readjust the lateral supports
    • Readjust the distance between the rack and pinions
    • Sand locally where there is friction (usually on the sides of parts A and B  ... go slowly)
    • Add some lubrication

    Lubrication

    We strongly recommend to lubricate all moving parts by: 

    Printing with an SD card

    Please note that it's possible to print with ULIO via an SD card without being connected to a computer

    • Purchase online a Reprapdiscount LCD display 
    • Connect EXP1 and EXP2 to their respected terminals onto the mini rambo board
    • Download and print a Reprapdiscount LCD display enclosure from thingiverse
     
     
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