• Verify if the X, Y and Z gears fit tight onto the motor shaft

• If the bore is too small manually drill out a 5 mm hole

• FAN2 and the thermistor T0 have similar wiring connectors

• FAN1 tag is not shown in the video

• Fasten tight all 4 M3-25 bolts

• Fasten tight both M3-20 bolts

• If the hole is small, sand the inner wall then use a wrench to fasten the coupler tight

• Make sure the ball bearing is moving freely after assembly

• Align the openings with a 6 in. PLA filament

• Tighten properly the set screw on the flat side of the shaft

• Insert M3 nuts with the flat sides parallel to the openings

• Center the M3 nuts with a small Allen key & a test M3 bolt

• Spread plasticine to prevent the M3 nuts from falling out

• Krazy or super glue in No Run or Ultra Gel only

• Install the rack with the teeth at the bottom

• Add 2 drops of glue inside the opening of the x axis gear

• Align the flat side of the motor shaft with the flat side of the gear, hold the backside of the motor and push in the gear

  • Do not tap on the the motor, it will damage it

• Allow the glue to dry for 5 minutes

  • To remove the gear, break off the head with pliers, remove the motor, then cut off the rest with cutters

N

x axis rack and pinion adjustment

This step is only required, if you’re having problems moving the X axis rack. Else skip to the next section.

• Ease the pressure between the rack & pinion by raising the X axis motor

Important notice

• At 39 sec. make sure to hold the nozzle with your finger while retightening the heatsink into the heater block

• Tighten securely the heater cartridge in place (it's normal to see the aluminum block bend a little)

• Unlike the heating block, do not over tighten the thermistor screw otherwise you risk permanent damage

  • Stop tightening as soon as you feel a bit of resistance

  • Make sure the thermistor does not move

• Tie rap the thermistor to the wiring of the heater cartridge

• Unlike what’s shown in the video, turn the hotend so the shorter side of the heater block is facing you

• You don’t have to install the M4 nuts if it’s too hard to fasten

• Do not hold the fans with the blades

• Do not hold the fans with the blades

• The hotend cooling fan (FAN2) might come with long wires

• Do not hold the fans with the blades

• FAN2: The hotend cooling fan might have similar wire connectors to the thermistor (T0)

• FAN1: The longer cable connects to the fan on the left while the shorter cable connects to the fan on the right

• The attached bundle of wires should not be sticking out or they might restrict movement of the X axis rack

Option 1:

Advanced installation greatly reduces hotend jams

Option 2:

Typical installation, prone to hotend jams

• Cut the ends of the PTFE tubing perfectly flat

• Insert the PTFE tubing 5 cm into the heatsink

• Lock into place the Bowden tube by lifting the black plastic coupler then insert the blue retaining clip

• Bend the pins in the right direction

• Handle this part gently while installing it on the X axis rack

• If it's difficult to screw the M3-12 bolts, do not force!

  • The nuts are not properly centered

  • Some plastic strings are still in the openings

• Insert the M3 nuts with the sides parallel to the openings

• Center the M3 nuts with a small allen key and a bolt

• Spread plasticine to prevent the M3 nuts from falling out

• Install the 3 washers

• Push back part I then fasten tight the M3-12 bolts

• The X rack should move with ease, if not loosen up a bit the bolts

• Make sure the screws are flush up against the top surface

• Once installed, the Y rack must close the Y end switch, if not you’ll need to add 1 x Phillips screw 3/8 in. at the tip

• Krazy or super glue in No Run or Ultra Gel only

• install the Y axis rack with the teeth facing the same direction as shown in the video

• Add 2 drops of glue inside the opening of the y axis gear

• Align the flat side of the motor shaft with the flat side of the gear, hold the backside of the motor and push in the gear

  • Do not tap on the the motor, it will damage it

• Allow the glue to dry for 5 minutes

  • To remove the gear, break off the head with pliers, remove the motor, then cut off the rest with cutters

• Scotch tape and tie raps

• Ground yourself before working with electronics

• Follow the color code of the motor wiring, otherwise the motors will turn in the wrong direction

• Press down tight all the connectors especially the motors

• Non polarized connectors (you can reverse the wires)

  • Thermistor (T0)

  • X, Y and Z end switches

  • The heater cartridge (tagged as Extruder)

• Polarized connectors (you can’t reverse the wires)

  • FAN 1 & 2 (red wire must be on the side of the USB)

• Insert the M3 nuts with the sides parallel to the openings

• Center the M3 nuts with a small allen key and a bolt

• Spread plasticine to prevent the M3 nuts from falling out

VERY IMPORTANT

• Power supply is polarized, you must not reverse the wires

• Fasten tight the nut of the DC power jack

• Ground yourself before working with electronics

• Power supply is polarized, you must not reverse the wires

  • The red wire is connected to the pin In+

  • The white wire is connected to the pin -PWR

• If necessary insert a small Allen key to lock into place the M3 nuts while tightening the bolts

• Tie rap both cables (HH & II) so they don't get in the way of the Y axis rack

•  Krazy or super glue in No Run or Ultra Gel only

• Add 2 drops of glue inside the opening of the z axis gear

• Align the flat side of the motor shaft with the flat side of the gear, hold the backside of the motor and push in the gear

  • Do not tap on the the motor, it will damage it

• Allow the glue to dry for 5 minutes

  • To remove the gear, break off the head with pliers, remove the motor, then cut off the rest with cutters

• If the rack and pinion are slipping, minimize their gap

  • Unscrew the bolts by one turn, push the motor towards the rack, then retighten the bolts

• Position and screw the side support

• If it’s too long, sand the sides

• Position the side rail while ensuring the Y rack moves with ease, then fasten the bolts and nuts

• It’s highly unlikely, but If the acrylic sheet is too big simply cut it a local hardware store

• When tightening the bolt in place, make sure it does not slip under the acrylic sheet

• Use a folded paper to adjust the distance between the bracket & the print bed, then tighten the screws

• Krazy or super glue in No Run or Ultra Gel only

• Before inserting the M3 nut, screw the M3-25 bolt from the top of the opening to widen the plastic hole

• Insert the M3 nuts with the sides parallel to the openings

• Although it is not shown in the video, you have to glue part T to the head of the M3-25 bolt

• Insert the red tube then install and fasten the screws

• Ignore the V design & clear tubing in the video, these were older models but with the same assembly instructions

• Screw the shim on the backside of part C

• Make sure the Z rack still moves with ease, if not reprint a thinner shim

• Krazy or super glue in No Run or Ultra Gel only

• Install the shim as shown in the picture on the left

• Sand the bottom of the shim if it’s too thick

• Glue the shim into place

• Install the LCD inside the enclosure and fasten the screws

• Disassemble the main body of the printer (see section OO)

• Connect EXP1 and EXP2 to their respected terminals

• Place the LCD cables on the side of the printer

• Reassemble the main body of the printer (see section OO)

• Fasten the backside of the enclosure

• Install the knob

Important notice

• At the startup of the printer (step 6) you might have to reverse the LCD cables & adjust the contrast of the LCD

• Remove the blade from the pencil sharpener and install it on the 3D printed filament sharpener