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Assembly videos


Getting started

  • Layout all the parts on a flat table
    • For more information visit the complete bill of material on our main download page
    • We strongly recommend to sort the fasteners into small separate containers
  • Make sure to select the No Run or Ultra Gel when purchasing the Krazy or super glue 
  • Assembling the ULIO 3D printer is a learning experience so please take the time you need to properly assemble the printer

Fasteners

  • M4-50: This is the only stainless steel bolt (50 mm) in the kit
  • M3-25: This is the long (L) black bolt (25 mm) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by ooo
  • M3-20: This is the medium sized (M) black bolt (20 mm) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by oo
  • M3-12: This is the small (S) black bolt (12 mm) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by o
  • Phillips #2 screws-1/2 in: This is the long (L) screw (1/2 in.) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by |||
  • Phillips #2 screws-3/8 in: This is the medium sized (M) screw (3/8 in.) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by ||
  • Phillips #2 screws-1/4 in: This is the small (S) screw (1/4 in.) in the kit and is identified physically on the printer by |

 

 

A

Sanding

  • 1 x sanding sheet
  • PLEASE MAKE SURE there are no excess blobs or strings within the teeth of the racks or within the rails
  • All moving parts should slide with ease BEFORE going ahead with the assembly
    • If some parts are too tight you might have to rescale and reprint them . Please refer back to our STL download page
    • Although not shown in the video please make sure the X axis rack is also moving with ease (part F)

 

 

B

making sure the X, Y and Z gears FIT ON THE MOTOR SHAFT

5 mm drill bit (now included in our kit)

A) If your gears have a tight fit on the motor shaft that's ideal

  • If there's a tiny little gap then you can eventulally add a few drops of Krazy or super glue gel (Not now only in steps M, DD and PP)

B) If your gears are too tight to fit on the motor shaft then you have two choices:

  1. Scale up the X and Y axis (max 3%) and reprint the parts (please refer to our STL download page )
  2. Manually clean out the gear opening with a 5 mm drill bit. Please follow these steps:
  • Manually drill out a 5 mm opening by twisting back and forth the drill bit into the gear
    • Make sure there's no pieces of plastic inside the opening of the gear by tapping the gear opening on a table or blow inside the opening to get rid of any loose pieces of plastic
    • Repeat this step until the gear fits easily onto the motor shaft
    • Do not insert the gear all the way onto the motor shaft or else you will not be able to take it out 
    • You will need to add a few drops of Krazy or super glue gel (Not now only in steps M, DD and PP)
      • Make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft

C) If you need to take out the gears once they're set into place:

  • Simply break off the head of the gear (use a cutter pliers or regular pliers)
  • Use a cutter pliers and break in small pieces the plastic gear from the motor shaft  
 
 

c

WIRE Tagging

  • 1 x stickers sheet
  • The hot end central cooling fan (FAN2) and the thermistor (T0) have similar wiring connectors
 
 

d

Installing the X axis motor

  • 4 x M3-25
 
 

e

Installing the Z axis motor

  • 4 x M3-25
 
 

f

Installing the Y axis motor

  • 4 x M3-25
 
 

g

Installing the Extruder motor

  • 2 x M3-20
  • Please make sure to clean out all the openings from excess blobs or strings
 
 

h

Extruder assembly (Screw in Coupler)

  • 1 x M3-25
  • 1 x screw in coupler
  • If the hole of the screw in coupler is too tight or too loose you can either:
    • Scale up or down the  Y and Z axis (max 3%)
      • please refer back to our STL download page
    • Sand the hole (too tight)
    • Glue the screw in coupler (too loose)
    • You can also use a screw thread hand tap 
 
 

i

Extruder assembly (handle)

  • 1 x ball bearing
  • 1 x M3-12
  • 2 M3 flat washers
  • Please make sure to clean out the ball bearing cavity from excess blobs or strings
  • This step is important for proper extrusion
    • DO NOT forget to install the washers on each side of the ball bearing
  • Make sure the ball bearing is moving freely

 

 
 

j

Extruder assembly (spring)

  • 1 x M3-20
  • 1 x M3 flat washers
  • 1 x spring
  • If ever you have extrusion problems you can always compress the spring even more by adding one or even two nuts on the M3-25 (the bolt that holds the spring in place)

 

 
 

k

Extruder assembly (hobbed gear)

  • 1 x hobbed gear
  • 1 x hobbed gear set screw
  • 6 in of 1.75 mm PLA filament (for alignement purposes only)
  • This step is important for proper extrusion
    • Make sure there are no excess blobs or strings in the openings where the filament passes
    • Make sure the hole opening in the handle is well aligned with the groove of the hobbed gear and the hole opening of the screw in coupler
    • If the two (2) hole openings are misaligned with the groove of the hobbed gear that will cause friction and eventually cause extrusion problems
  • Please make sure to tighten properly the set screw of the hobbed gear on the flat side of the motor shaft

 

 
 

l

X axis Rack preparation

  • 4 x M3-12
  • 4 x M3 nuts
  • Plasticine
  • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
  • Make sure to insert the nuts with the sides parallel to the openings or else they will not fit
  • Make sure to center the nuts with a small allen key and a bolt
  • Once centered spread the plasticine to make sure the nut is set into place

 

 
 

M

x axis rack and pinion assembly

  • Krazy or super glue gel
  • Please make sure the X axis rack moves freely withing the groove of part A if not :
    • Please refer back to our STL download page for more information
  • Make sure to install the X axis rack with the teeth facing down
  • When inserting the gear on the motor shaft you have two scenarios (see step B)

A) Your gears have a tight fit on the motor shaft (if there's a tiny little gap you can add a few drops of Krazy or super glue gel and make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft)

  • Please make sure to align the flat side of the motor shaft to the flat side of the gear
  • Hold the back side of the motor when pressing in the gear
  • If necessary tap in GENTLY with a hammer
    • If you tap in too hard you might end up breaking the gear or even worst damaging the stepper motor
  • If you used glue let it rest for approximately 10 min

B) You used the 5 mm drill bit to widen the opening of the gear:

  • Once you made sure the gear fits onto the motor shaft the next step would be to add 1 to 2 drops of krazy or super glue gel into the gear opening and manually slide the gear onto the motor shaft 
    • Make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft
  • Let the glue rest for approximately 10 min

C) If you need to take out the gear:

  • Simply break off the head of the gear (use a cutter pliers or regular pliers)
  • Unscrew the 4 bolts of the motor
  • Remove the motor from its place
  • Use a cutter pliers and break in small pieces the plastic gear from the motor shaft
 
 

N

x axis rack and pinion adjustment (This step is required only if the X axis rack is not moving with ease) 

  • You can ease the pressure of the rack and pinion teeth by slightly lifting up the X axis motor: 
    • Unscrew the bolts of the motor by half a turn
    • Push the X motor up
    • Retighten the motor bolts
    • Make sure the X axis rack moves freely
 
 

O

Hotend assembly ( heatsink, heater block and nozzle)

  • 1 x heatsink
  • 1 x heater block
  • 1 x nozzle
  • At 39 sec in the video please make sure to hold the nozzle while retightening the heatsink into the heater block
  • Please refer to E3D online's documentation for more detailed assembly information

 

 
 

P

Hotend assembly (thermistor and heater cartridge)

  • 1 x thermistor and 1 x  set screw

  • 1 x heater cartridge and 1 x set screw

  • 1 x bowden tube plastic coupler

  • 1 x tie rap

  • You need to tighten properly the heater cartridge so it doesn't move (you might see a slight bend of the aluminum heater block and that's ok)

    • Do not pull too hard on the cables

  • Contrary to the heater block DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the thermistor or you might permanently damage it

    • Stop tightening as soon as you feel a resistance 

    • However make sure the thermistor is set in place 

    • Do not pull to hard on the cables

    • Make sure to bend and tie rap the thermistor cables to the cables of the heater cartridge

  • Please refer to E3D online's documentation for more detailed assembly information

 
 

Q

Hotend installation

  • 2 x M4-50
  • 2 x M4 nuts
  • Please make sure to clean out all the openings from excess blobs or strings
  • It is highly recommended to screw in the M4-50 bolts and then take them out, before installing the hotend in order to prep the openings
  • Although using the M4 nuts is preferable, you can skip this step if you choose to do so
  • Although not shown in the video, the thermistor's (T0) wires should be attached to the heater's catrtidge wire (see step P)
 
 

R

Side cooling fans installation (FAN1)

  • 8 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  •  DO NOT hold the fans with the blades
    • You  might damage the fans or even worst you might brake the blades
 
 

S

Hotend cooling fan assembly and installation (FAN2)

  • 4 x Phillips screws-16 mm
  • DO NOT hold the fan with the blades
    • You  might damage the fan or even worst you might brake the blades
 
 

T

Hotend and fans wiring connections

  • Please note that The thermistor (T0) and the hot end cooling fan (FAN2) have similar wire connectors
  • Please pay attention to the length of the wire connectors when wiring the side cooling fans (FAN 2)
  • Although not shown in the video, the thermistor's (T0) wires should be attached to the heater's catrtidge wire (see step P)
  • Make sure the attached bundle of wires look exactly as shown in the video
    • if the wires are sticking out they will restrict the movement of the X axis rack
 
 

U

Hotend Bowden tube installation

  • Please make sure to insert the bowden tube 5 cm into the hot end 
    • Failing to do so will leave a gap between the bowden tube and the nozzle that will end up jamming your hotend
    • Please make sure to lock in place the bowden tube by lifting up the plastic coupler on top of the hot end (hold in place the tube while lifting the coupler)
  • Although not shown in the video, it is highly recommended to install the retaining clip under the plastic Bowden coupling
    • Click here to download the STL file and adjust the X, Y and Z scale if necessary (you should hear a clicking sound when it's installed properly)
    • As of january first 2018 we will be providing these locking clips in our kit

  

 
 

V

Hotend silicone cover installation

  • Installing a silicone cover will prevent the PLA from sticking to the nozzle and the heater block 
  • Although not necessary,  you might have to trim the silicone cover as shown in the video
 
 

W

Mechanical endstop switch preparation

 

 

 

X

X axis mechanical endstop switch installation

  • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • The endstop switch is non-polarised (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

Y

Mounting the hotend assembly on the X axis rack

  • 4 x M3-12
  • Please handle this part gently (the ears might break off)
    • If it's hard to screw the M3 bolts into the X axis rack, do not force,  this means either:
      • The nuts are not properly centered or
      • There might still be some plastic blobs or strings in the openings (please refer back to section K)
 
 

Z

X axis rack holder preparation

  • 3 x M3 nuts
  • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
  • Make sure to center the nuts with a small allen key and a bolt
  • Once centered spread the plasticine to make sure the nut is set into place
 
 

AA

X axis rack holder installation

  • 3 x M3 flat washers
  • 3 x M3-12 bolts
  • Do not forget to install the 3 washers
  • Tighten the M3-12 bolts until you feel a slight restriction in movement of the X axis rack
    • Do not over tighten and make sure the X axis rack moves with ease
  • Please make sure the backside of the X axis rack (part F) rests flat against part A, if not part F will not slide properly

New additional part since December 2017 (beta test and not shown in the video):

  • You will also need to print and install this shim between parts I and F to prevent the X axis from moving up and down (click here to see the installation)
    • If the shim is too thick you can sand it until the X axis rack (part F) moves with ease
 
 

BB

Mounting the extruder

  • 3 x M3-20
  • Handle this part with care

 

 
 

CC

Installing the leveling screws into the Y axis rack

  • 4 x Phillips screws-1/4 in
  • Make sure to have the head of the screws flush with the Y axis rack surface
    • You might have to adjust them later on to level up the printbed 
  • Although not shown in the video you can add 1 x Phillips screw-3/8 in at the tip of the Y rack 
    • At this stage make sure the screw is flush, however you might have to adjust it later on during the startup phase
 
 

DD

Y AXIS RACK & PINION ASSEMBLY and adjustment

  • Krazy or super glue gel
  • Please make sure the Y axis rack moves freely withing the rails of part C if not :
    • Please refer back to our STL download page for more information
  • Make sure to position the teeth of the Y axis rack the same way it's shown in the video
  • When inserting the gear on the motor shaft you have two scenarios (see step B)

A) Your gears have a tight fit on the motor shaft (if there's a tiny little gap you can add a few drops of Krazy or super glue gel and make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft)

  • Please make sure to align the flat side of the motor shaft to the flat side of the gear
  • Hold the back side of the motor when pressing in the gear
  • If necessary tap in GENTLY with a hammer
    • If you tap in too hard you might end up breaking the gear or even worst damaging the stepper motor
  • If you used glue let it rest for approximately 10 min

B) You used the 5 mm drill bit to widen the opening of the gear:

  • Once you made sure the gear fits onto the motor shaft the next step would be to add 1 to 2 drops of krazy or super glue gel into the gear opening and manually slide the gear onto the motor shaft 
    • Make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft
  • Let the glue rest for approximately 10 min

C) If you need to take out the gear:

  • Simply break off the head of the gear (use a cutter pliers or regular pliers)
  • Unscrew the 4 bolts of the motor
  • Remove the motor from its place
  • Use a cutter pliers and break in small pieces the plastic gear from the motor shaft
  • Make sure to minimize the gap between the teeth of the Y axis rack and the gear:
    • Unscrew the bolts of the Y motor by half a turn
    • Push the Y motor towards the teeth of the Y rack
    • Double check the Y rack still moves with ease
    • Retighten the Y motor bolts
 
 

EE

Wiring the X, Y, Z and extruder motors

  • Please take the time to properly wire up the motors
 
 

FF

Y AXIS MECHANICAL ENDSTOP SWITCH INSTALLATION

  • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • The endstop switch is non-polarised (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

GG

Z AXIS MECHANICAL ENDSTOP SWITCH INSTALLATION

  • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
  • The endstop switch is non-polarised (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

HH

Cable management (Hotend, Fan1, Fan2)

  • One (1) 3/8 in. Black split tubing 16 in long 
  • Tie raps
  • The heater cartridge (Tagged as Extruder) is non-polarized (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

II

Cable management ( Y motor, Y endstop and Z endstop)

  • Tie raps
  • One (1) 1/4 in. Black split tubing 8 in long
 
 

JJ

Cable management ( X motor, Extruder motor and X endstop)

  • Scotch tape
  • Tie raps
  • Please use scotch tape to bundle up the wires together to make sure the cables will fit into the groove of the back covers (see section WW below)  
 
 

KK

Microcontroller connections

  • Static electricity might permanently damage your microcontroller. Make sure to ground yourself before working with electronics.
    • Try as much as possible not to touch the PCB circuit with your hands
  • Please take your time to properly wire up the microcontroller
  • Please follow the color code of the X, Y, Z & Extuder motor as shown in the video, otherwise the motors will move in the wrong direction
    • Make sure to press properly the motor terminals against the microcontroller's pins
  • You can't really go wrong while connecting the X, Y & Z end stop switch to the board since the terminals have a one way locking mechanism
  • The thermistor (T0) is non-polarized (meaning you can reverse the wires)
  • FAN 1 is polarized and has a one way locking mechanism, you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
  • FAN 2 is polarized and does not have any locking mechanism, you can not reverse the wires (make sure the red wire is on the side of the USB connection)
  • The heater cartridge (Tagged as Extruder) is non-polarized (meaning you can reverse the wires)
 
 

LL

Controller enclosure preparation

  • 4 x M3-20
  • 4 x M3 nuts
  • Plasticine
  • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
  • Make sure to insert the nuts with the sides parallel to the openings or else they will not fit
  • Make sure to center the nuts with a small allen key and a bolt
  • Once centered spread the plasticine to make sure the nut is set into place
 
 

MM

Power wiring and USB panel mount installation

  • VERY IMPORTANT:The power supply is polarized and you can not reverse the wires
    • Make sure to connect the red and the white wire to the terminal block as show in the video
  • Don't forget to tighten up the nut of the DC power jack

 

 
 

NN

Mounting the microcontroller into the enclosure,  connecting the power terminal and the USB panel mount extension

  • 4 x Phillips screws-3/8 in
  • Static electricity might permanently damage your microcontroller. Make sure to ground yourself before working with electronics.
    • Try as much as possible not to touch the PCB circuit with your hands
  • The power supply is polarized and you can not reverse the wires
    • Make sure the red wire is connected to the pin In+ on the PCB Board
    • Make sure the white wire is connected to the pin -PWR on the PCB Board

 

 
 

OO

Cable management and printer assembly

 
 

PP

Z AXIS RACK & PINION ASSEMBLY 

  • Krazy or super glue gel
  • Please make sure the Z axis rack moves freely withing the rails of part A & B if not :
    • Please refer back to our STL download page for more information
  • When inserting the gear on the motor shaft you have two scenarios (see step B)

A) Your gears have a tight fit on the motor shaft (if there's a tiny little gap you can add a few drops of Krazy or super glue gel and make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft)

  • Please make sure to align the flat side of the motor shaft to the flat side of the gear
  • Hold the back side of the motor when pressing in the gear
  • If necessary tap in GENTLY with a hammer
    • If you tap in too hard you might end up breaking the gear or even worst damaging the stepper motor
  • If you used glue let it rest for approximately 10 min

B) You used the 5 mm drill bit to widen the opening of the gear:

  • Once you made sure the gear fits onto the motor shaft the next step would be to add 1 to 2 drops of krazy or super glue gel into the gear opening and manually slide the gear onto the motor shaft 
    • Make sure to keep the glue away from the base of the motor shaft
  • Let the glue rest for approximately 10 min

C) If you need to take out the gear:

  • Simply break off the head of the gear (use a cutter pliers or regular pliers)
  • Unscrew the 4 bolts of the motor
  • Remove the motor from its place
  • Use a cutter pliers and break in small pieces the plastic gear from the motor shaft

New additional part since December 2017 (beta test and not shown in the video):

  • 2 x Phillips-3/8 po
  • If part C tilts forward (a bit is ok) you will need to shim the back of the rack. Please avoid a tight fit, part C should slide with ease with no effort (Click here to see the installation)
    • Print out this test scale to determine the right thickness of your shim
 
 

QQ

Z axis lateral support installation

  • 4 x Phillips screws-3/8 in

    New part since December 2017 (beta test and not shown in the video):

    • Print and install the following support to replace the original part (click here to see the installation)
      • If this part is too short you can extend it by adjusting the scale of the X axis
      • If it's too long you can adjust the scale of the X axis or simply sand off the ends manually (200 to 300 grains)
    • Simply position and adjust the lateral supports into place while making sure the Z axis rack is still moving with ease
      • The side of the lateral support should be touching the sides of part A and B but should not be pushing on it so much that it can not move with ease
      • Double check the Z rack still moves with ease if not :
        • It will be necessary to sand the ends or to reprint the part with a reduced scale on the X axis
     
     

    rr

    Y axis side rail installation

    • 3 x M3-20
    • 3 x M3 nuts
    • Simply adjust the Y axis side rail into place while making sure the Y axis rack is still moving with ease
    • Double check the Y rack still moves with ease, if not:
      • Simply loosen up the bolts and readjust the side rail
     
     

    SS

    Printbed platform preparation

    • 1 x M3 nut
    • 1 x M3-12
    • Plasticine
     
     

    TT

    Printbed preparation and assembly

    • If the acrylic plateform does not fit into part E simply cut off the excess at a local hardware store
    • When tightening the bolt in place, make sure it does not slide under the acrylic plate
     
     

    UU

    Printbed LATERAL SUPPORT INSTALLATION

    • 4 x Phillips screws-1/4 in
    • Simply position and adjust the lateral supports into place while making sure the printbed is moving with ease
      • The side of the lateral support should be touching the walls of the print bed but should not be pushing on it so much that it can not move with ease
      • Double check the printbed still moves with ease, if not:
        • Simply loosen up the screws and readjust the lateral supports

      

     
     

    VV

    Y AXIS MECHANICAL ENDSTOP cover installation

    • 1 X M3 nut
    • 1 X M3-12
     
     

    WW

    Backside cable cover installation

    • 4 x Phillips screws-3/8 in
     
     

    XX

    Z axis leveling screw

    • 1 x M3-25
    • 1 x M3 nut
    • Krazy or super glue gel
    • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or strings
    • BEFORE inserting the nut, screw the M3-25 bolt from the top of the opening to slightly widen the plastic hole (repeat this step 2 to 3 times)
    • If the M3-25 is not screwing in with ease DO NOT FORCE IT
      • Please make sure to clean out the hole openings from excess blobs or string
    • Although it's not shown in the video you have to glue the thumb wheel to the head of the M3-25 bolt
     
     

    YY

    Bowden tube insert into coupler and split tube cover installation

    • Make sure the hotend cable doesn't interfere with the Y axis rack movement
      • You could tie rap the two split tubes together at a height of 1/2 in from the bottom
     
     

    ZZ

    Z axis additional lateral support 

    • 2 x Phillips screws-1/2 in
    • Nylon tube

    Newly upgraded part since December 2017 (beta test and not shown in the video):

    • Print and install the following support to replace the original part (click here to see the installation )
      • Once in place push this piece to the left before tightening the screws

    PS: If part C has difficulty going up or down:

    • Do not forget to pinch the nylon tube
    • Sand the sides of parts A or B (200 to 300 grains)
    • If it's too tight you can remove the nylon tube
     
     

    AAA

    Powering up the unit

     
     
     
     
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